For those looking for a small city packing with a lot of history, Córdoba is it. It was love at first sight as I passed over the Roman Bridge and entered the historic city center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The sun was just beginning to set and I hurried about as fast as I could to get to my hotel. You see, the streets in Córdoba are so narrow that one must exercise a level of caution when driving a normal sized car down a street meant for a Mini Cooper. I finally arrived at my hotel, checked in and then set off to explore the city.
A Little History
Founded by the Romans, then as thriving as a flourishing European capital under Muslim rule, and finally taken over by the Catholics, Córdoba has significant cultural sites that exhibit all the different times of rule in the city.Córdoba’s historic quarter is a beautiful capillary of narrow streets and alleys, intimate squares and whitewashed courtyards. The beautiful Mezquita (the Spanish word for mosque) is at the heart of the city and is reflective of the time under Islamic rule.
Being in the city during the winter months, which is known to be rather quiet unlike the lively summer months, I felt as if I had the city to myself. Sometimes this is a good thing while at times I do enjoy some hustle and bustle. Nevertheless, it was a great opportunity to take pictures free of an onslaught of tourists. I was surprised to find many of the flowers hanging on the white walls around the city, such as along the famous Calle de Flores, were in bloom despite the colder months.
Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba
One of the most popular attractions in the city is the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. Originally a Catholic Christian church, the building wasconverted to an Islamic mosque after the Islamic conquest in the Middle Ages. Then after the Reconquista, it was made a Catholic Christian church once again. The cathedral is regarded as one of the most accomplished monuments of Moorish architecture.
Palacio de Viana
Another favorite in Córdoba was the Palacio de Viana, a Renaissance palace set around twelve stunning patios (courtyards) with beautiful flowers and foliage – something I’m totally obsessed with if you haven’t seen my Pinterest board dedicated to the exact subject. Spanning over 6500 square meters, the palace is filled with art and antiques. Until a few decades ago, Palacio de Viana was occupied by the Marqueses de Viana. I spent hours wandering around the beautiful patios and marveling at the countless orange trees, the bougainvillea climbing up the whitewashed walls and the fountains gracing the courtyards. Don’t miss the site!
The entire city is completely accessible by foot. It is fun to walk around and get lost, turning down random corners and discovering the unexpected. Be sure to stay in the historic center, somewhat near the mosque as it is within walking distance to everything you’d want to see.
Getting There
- TRAIN: The railway station of Cordoba (Spain) is a major stop along the high-speed AVE Madrid – Seville line and AVE Madrid – Malaga line, as well as other regional and national train routes. AVE trains run hourly from Madrid (1 hour 45 minutes), Seville (45 minutes) and Malaga (50 minutes). There are also two daily AVE services to Barcelona (about five hours). Additionally, there is a very cheap sleeping train option from Cordoba to Barcelona (Andalucía Express).
- DRIVE: From Madrid, Cordoba is approximately 250 miles via A-4 and will take around four hours. From Seville, it is a much shorter drive with a distance of only 90 miles and will take around one and a half hours also via A-4.
- FLY: Although Cordoba has an airport, nowadays there are no commercial flights. The closest major airports are in Seville, Málaga and Madrid; from there a train or a bus would take you to main train stations and you can change to other train towards Cordoba (train from Seville around 30 min and from Malaga 50 min).
- BUS: Cordoba’s bus station is just across the street from the train station. Regular bus service is available from almost every town in Andalucia as well as from Madrid departing from the “Estación Sur” (around 6 buses per day).
