Mention Bali and images of sculpted rice terraces, gorgeous sunsets, turquoise waters and hundred-year-old temples come to mind. Or some may think of Elizabeth Gilbert’s 2006 book Eat, Pray, Love, which inspired hordes of spiritual tourists to visit the island. Visiting this layered place enhances preconceptions with the Bali you experience embellishing the Bali you’ve imagined.
With its incredible scenery and unique culture, Bali is unlike anywhere else in the world. Despite Kuta’s harrowing terrorist attacks in 2002 and again in 2005, Bali still remains a popular tourist destination and the Balinese are a warm and welcoming people.
In the South, travelers who prefer to avoid the party scene of Kuta where drunken tourists often dominate the beaches, will find tranquility in Seminyak, known for its upscale and luxurious hotels, restaurants and shopping. The Legian Bali (Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak; +62 361 730622) is a beachfront, all-suite resort with a contemporary approach to traditional Indonesian design. Relax at the 2-tier pool overlooking the ocean before indulging in a massage at the world-class spa. In the late afternoon have the hotel arrange a driver to take you 45 minutes northwest of Seminyak to the village of Tabanan in time for sunset. Here you will find the iconic Tanah Lot, a rock formation that shoots out into the ocean. It is the site of a pilgrimage temple, Pura Tanah Lot, which was built in around the 16th century and is only accessible during low tide. As the sun sinks behind the horizon, the skies turn a brilliant, golden-red creating the perfect backdrop for the site.
With so many restaurants to choose from you cannot go wrong with MÉTIS Restaurant and Gallery (6 Jalan Petitenget, Kerobokan; +62 361 4737888), a French-Mediterranean restaurant that has an entire section of the menu dedicated to foie gras. The restaurant also features a gallery boutique with Bali’s traditional and contemporary art and fashion.
Seminyak boasts an ultra-chic, trendy nightlife. The classic KU DE TA (Jalan Hotel The Oberoi Kuta, Bali) has been around since 2000 and remains at the forefront of the Seminyak party scene. For cocktails with impeccable sunset views, head to Rock Bar (AYANA RESORT, Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran; +62 361 702222; ayanaresort.com) which sits 14 meters above the ocean at the base of the cliffs.
After you’ve soaked up enough rays at the beach, head North to the Bali’s cultural center Ubud, the islands preeminent center for fine arts, dance and music. What was once predominantly visited by backpackers, cosmic seekers, artists and bohemians, Ubud is now a hotspot from everyone to the literati and glitterati to the yogis and art collectors. Surrounded by terraced rice fields, art and craft communities, ancient temples and rivers, Ubud is arguably the best place for culture, comfort, nature and inspiration.
Set amid rice fields just a short drive from Ubud town center is The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah (Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Ubud; +62 361 975685; ghmhotels.com), a luxury retreat of sumptuous villas and suites. Each villa is a showcase of traditional Balinese architecture. Many of the villas have their own pool with their own private butler as well.
To immerse yourself in the surrounding beauty of Ubud, take a bike tour with Banyan Tree Bike Tours (Br Baung, Desa Sayan, Ubud; +62 361 971 088; banyantreebiketours.com), which is a local-run tour operator that takes you through the amazing highlands on bicycle. At night, experience a traditional Balinese fire dance such as the Kecak Fire & Trance Dance (Jl. Sriwedari | Taman Kaja Community, Ubud; +62 361 970508; kecakdance.com) on every Wendesday and Saturday. Fire dances take place throughout Ubud several nights a week. Any local can tell you where the dance of the night will be held.
One of the most famous attractions in Ubud is the Sacred Monkey Forest (Jalan Wenara Wana, Ubud; +62 361 971304; monkeyforestubud.com) a nature reserve and temple complex in the village center. The forest is home to over 600 macaques that swing from branches and chase any visitor carrying food. Unless you want to have rabid monkeys crawling all over you, enter the forest with very few items otherwise these cute kleptomaniacs will take whatever they can get their hands on.
Once you’ve explored everything around Ubud, hire a driver to take you to some of the sites outside the village. Goa Gajah, or more commonly known as Elephant Cave, is an incredible complex at Bedulu village just 2 km southeast of Ubud. The centerpiece here is a cave dating back to the 11th century with an ornately carved demon’s mouth as the entrance. Further north of Ubud is the temple complex of Tirta Empul, which is one of the holiest temples in all of Bali. The site was built around hot springs that still bubble in the central courtyard. Located on the western shore of Lake Bratan is Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, which is devoted to Dewi Danu, the goddess of the lake. The illusion that it is floating on the water is one of the reasons it is the most iconic site in all of Bali.
All images courtesy my good friend Karen Bianchi. Go check out her photography at karenbianchi.com and her blog karenbianchi.blogspot.com.
