I wasn’t really sure what to expect in Chiang Mai. I knew it was the countryside or mountainside or some combination of the two. I heard it was a laid-back city – where people come to relax and escape. Travel writers rave about Chiang Mai and many, like Jodi Ettenberg of Legal Nomads or Chris and Angela of Tieland to Thailand, often find themselves returning to the city to stay indefinitely.
History
To understand Chiang Mai, it helps to understand the tumultuous history of this city and how Chiang Mai has become home to a very diverse population.
In the late 13th century the Lanna Kingdom covered most of what we now know today as Northern Thailand as well as parts of Burma, China and Laos. It was bordered by Burma (now Myanmar) to the West, China to the North, the Khmer Empire of Angkor (now Cambodia) to the East, and Siam (now Thailand) in the South. In 1296 the Lanna Kingdom’s ruler King Mengrai built Chiang Mai as the kingdom’s capital.
Then in 1557, Chiang Mai was invaded by the Burmese and turned into a vassal state. The Burmese attacked again in 1767 Burma – this time striking and destroying Siam’s capital city of Ayutthaya. The city never recovered and the capital was recreated at Bangkok. Slowly the kingdom of Siam recovered under the new Chakri Dynasty.
Chiang Mai, after being deserted for twenty years following the Burmese onslaught, was gradually repopulated and, with assistance from Siam, the Lanna Kingdom finally drove out the Burmese. In 1892 the Lanna Kingdom eventually became part of Siam and was gradually condensed into a 20,000 km² area centered around Chiang Mai. In 1932 the whole Chiang Mai area officially became a province of Siam. In 1949 Siam officially became known as Thailand.
The inhabitants of Chiang Mai are a very mixed lot. To name a few, there are the hilltribe villages of the Shan, Karen and Padaung people, often referred to as the “Longnecks.” Many of inhabitants of the mountains surrounding Chiang Mai are refugees from Burma, Laos and China. Throughout Chiang Mai there are expats from all over the world – USA, Australia, Canada, Europe and other parts of surrounding Asia. Chiang Mai is a mix of cultures from all over the world and this is part of what makes this city so special.
First Impressions
Often referred to as the most culturally significant city of Thailand, Chiang Mai is exactly as I expected – a beautiful city nestled between the mountains, peaceful, serene, and most definitely… laid-back. There are no subways or skytrains or mass transit system. There is apparently a public bus, but that remained unbeknownst to me during my entire week there.
The City Center
The Old City is the pulse of Chiang Mai. Surrounded by a moat and a crumbling wall, which is somewhat reminiscent of medieval times. However, the motorbikes whizzing by quickly remind you that you are in fact in the 21st century. Throughout the Old City and outside the moat there are numerous temples – almost as if they have been perfectly sprinkled all over the valley of Chiang Mai.
Getting Around
Chiang Mai does not know the meaning of crosswalks. Few crosswalks exist and, even if there is one clearly marked, it means nothing. If you stay outside the city walls and want to walk into the Old City, this can be a bit of a challenge. Traffic moves in two opposite directions around the Old City walls – and it does not stop. Imagine crossing a highway – that is what you are up against. I did this every day and every time I prayed that I would make it across alive. The strategy? Wait for what looks like a decent sized gap between the cars, take a deep breath, and run. Evidenced by the fact that I am here telling this story it is safe to assume I survived the dashes across the road – and unscathed I might add.
The People
Walking along the streets of Chiang Mai you will see a mixed of locals, tourists and expats. I met several people from Australia, USA (California!), and Canada who now called Chiang Mai home. Whenever I asked why they chose Chiang Mai, the answers were always something along the lines of: “Because Chiang Mai is peaceful and laid-back – and its cheap!” The locals can be a bit shy and tend to keep to themselves unless approached. If you ask for directions, they will always try to help. Some do not know how to read a map but that will not keep them from trying to help you find your way.
The Food
The street food is amazing in Chiang Mai. There is no shortage of night markets – the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar (sunset to midnight, every night); the Saturday Night Walking Street Market (4pm-midnight Saturday); and the Sunday Night Walking Street Market (4pm-midnight Sunday). There are all different types of cuisines to choose from – Thai (obviously), Burmese, Italian, Mexican and many more.
There is no perfect amount of time to spend in Chiang Mai. It really depends on personal preference and what you intend to do. After day three, I became bored and started to worry that I would run out of things to do. Then I realized this: One of the best things about Chiang Mai is that you don’t have to rush. I ended up finding that one of my favorite things to do in Chiang Mai was to do absolutely nothing – to relax and sit still for a while. I spent many afternoons taking two hour lunches, reading a book at Wawee Coffee on Rachadamnoen Road and watching the world slowly go by. This is the beauty of a laid-back city – don’t miss it.
